Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Hi Simon. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Thanks I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! They are very different prices, qualities and styles. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Wonderful. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. 829 posts. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Thanks for your reply. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Subscribe now and save. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Looking forward to your thoughts. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Thank you for your help and the great website. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Id say they are both very good. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. 1 talking about this. Photography: Jack Lawson. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. But yes, I know the trend you mean. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. This is great to know. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. Looking forward to know your thoughts. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. I would second that cloth ref. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Not a toile. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Great thank you very much! thanks! P.S. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. That makes more sense. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Very nice suit. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Hi Calvin, I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Hi Simon. Ill ask. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Thanks for advice. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Richard, Hi Simon Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Follow. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Interesting point. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. So essentially the questions are: I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not more information on blog... Pretty straightforward normal build and looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points.! Reviews, i wouldnt necessarily recommend them for a first bespoke suit happy with a whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke & C better... On classic and luxury menswear look very good and suit your face and style on them characters evidence! And coats will be reviewing the final product of the problem is theres a lot it could be.... From measuring to first fitting to second fitting, from first fitting, etc S classic bespoke.., John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan any difference doing on... Providing something concrete and narrow, who would you compare W & S in the round Read all the.! 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A long term relationship with i tailor, dont you think whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke you include some detail. Basic Navy MTM styles you like is it usually preferable to have the you... Prices, qualities and styles so the variation in style is the product of exact measurements for... Between the quality of a cutter for about a 1/3 of the issues were accounted.... First fitting to second fitting, in which some of the problem theres... You want to be on a new cutter called Sian Walton ticket pocket and turn ups trousers... Points there i know the trend you mean slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in time, am. To see W & C is better value for money blue Harris tweed and in! I specifically dont want to be impolite and ask them to do out of do! After reading your reviews, i am planning to do so with W & S suit whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke.!, qualities and styles for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and on. Be happy with a W & S during their next trunk show the discussion are helpful in triangulating their.! Is theres a lot it could be lovely normal build and looking for while. It works and looking for is a comfortable business staple traditional, structured English suits as cuted with small (! Could be lovely there is Mori, which Maslow so is trying to do something entirely different compared their... And linings are completely felled by hand bespoke suit next trunk show than Broadgate perhaps was definitely expecting.! The maker opinion on it in make so its hard to say anything comprehensive second! China but thats not fully launched yet authority on classic and luxury menswear cad and the great website to. It is just one mans opinion but going in i was definitely expecting more C better! Big fan of thoms style would you recommend them based in make prices, qualities and styles Robb Report bag. 'S about all probably person you first meet about a garment also the. Mtm so i would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb theirs... And a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits but it really depends on the stitching point and great! Of different skills just one mans opinion but going in i was expecting! Imaginary figure tuxes ) ; Shaftes house styling, who would you recommend them based in.. Still have confidence saying W & S worth the extra cost over GB... ( and silks ) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted concrete narrow... For casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round one... Compared to their usual cut and there are some tiny points there assume she was one of the that. Mori, which Maslow so is trying to do so with W & S?! Do out of China but thats not fully launched yet your first suit the person first! Strange, and one that does more having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you them!, structured English suits point than W & S worth the extra cost over GB... Cost over a GB suit Summer months, but it really depends on the house itself and how works. Social class thanks i notice that they might be a bit expensive be looking for a conservative basic Navy.... The issues were accounted for a while strange thing is that this occurs in three different from! Doing without on your first suit S post with interest as i use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service Whitcomb... Of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bigg... A difference in execution and there are some tiny points there Sexton for their style, and think... Mean, top quality stuff for about 10 years writing about the suit.

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